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  #41  
Old 09-04-2011, 11:59 PM
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Actually, not a bike for sale, but browsing over at bikeforums, I ran across one of those type threads posted by a guy asking about the bike he bought cheap for riding around college. Maybe some of you will enjoy reading a bit of the exchange between the OP and the other bikeforum members. Oh...Here's a pic of the bike the OP posted:


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  #42  
Old 09-05-2011, 04:13 PM
Alan Alan is offline
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Default Cheap, Light, Alcohol-burning "Penny Stove"

JetBoil and MSR make very cool high-tech stoves that are quite light...and pricey ($65 for the most basic JetBoil). Instead, you can make your own stove that is lighter, costs less, runs on alcohol (available everywhere) and works just fine. In fact, you may be able to scrounge the parts you need to make it for free! There is actually a whole range of simple alcohol-burning stoves around. A commercially available Trangia (nice brass unit) is about $35. But that's still more than you have to spend, and it's a little heavier than this one you can make for yourself which works just as well.

There is loads of info scattered around about homemade alcohol stoves--search for things like "pop-can stove" or "penny stove"--but the two sites that helped me the most:

1. http://www.jureystudio.com/pennystove/ - Mark Jurey's instructions for building and operating a penny stove. If you read all his directions and follow them carefully, IT WILL WORK! Some directions are on different pages, so browse it all before you begin constructing a stove.

2. http://zenstoves.net/ - General information on many kinds do-it-yourself stoves with lots of background info, comparisons and links to other sites.

The very first penny stove I made worked but I did need to seal it up with JB Weld epoxy as explained on Jurey's site because the crimps on the burner ring slightly split the side of the fuel cup, and it leaked slightly around the burner ring. Same with the second attempt. The trick for me was gently tapping the burner top into the fuel cup, moving around it as I tapped, rather than pressing the whole thing in at once. The first one had too small a fuel cup depth and the second was too deep, but they still worked. By the third, fourth and fifth tries, I nailed it every time, no epoxy, even experimenting a bit with dimensions, can size, jet locations, base construction, etc. Once you have production set up, it takes about 10 minutes to mark, drill, cut and assemble the burner. The wire pot stand and windscreen are another 10-15 minutes total, but they can be re-used with various burners; you don't need to make them each time you try a new burner. The stove needs the whole system to work properly: burner, burner stand, simmer ring, pot stand, pot and windscreen. So, before you throw up your arms and scream "it's just not working right," be sure you have put together the whole kit!

Many kinds of aluminum cans will work just fine but some seem to fit better or have a ring around the bottom that makes for better flame-jet positioning. My favorite burner so far is made from two Budweiser Clamato beer can bottoms, with the top of a 12-oz Red Bull can for a base which fits perfectly (all scrounged). One made from two Tecate cans for both burner and base, as Jurey describes, also works perfectly (drank those ). My third good one is from Steel Reserve 24-oz beer cans (scrounged, no way I'm drinking that!), and the next one will be from Arizona Ice Tea 23-oz cans with a base from one of those Bud Clamato tops. (PS - that one works very nicely, too.)

Last night, my Tecate penny stove brought 2 cups of cold tap water to a full boil in about 4 minutes. After a couple test runs to figure out the simmer ring[1] I decided to actually cook a rice-and-lentil curry dish on it. It worked perfectly, heating the water quickly, then simmering down a a gentle boil for about 25 minutes of cooking time until the alcohol burned out, followed by another 10 minutes resting under a cozy of towels. Recipe: 2 C water, 1/2 C brown rice, 1/3 C orange lentils, 1 t curry powder; came out a little wet but just fine for rehydrating after hiking/biking. No scorching on the bottom of the pot!

I'll leave the construction and operation instructions to those other websites, particularly the Jurey site, but just to indicate how cheap and light it is, here's the materials list:
  • Two or three aluminum cans . . . . . . . . . . free (or cost of whatever beverage you choose)
  • One or two wire coat hangers . . . . . . . . . free (or some other similar guage wire)
  • 18" of fine steel or copper wire . . . . . . . . free (scroungable; e.g. florist wire)
  • One penny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $0.01
  • Aluminum dryer duct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $4.00 [2]
  • HEET alcohol fuel dryer . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2.50 12-oz [3]
  • Cooking pot (1-2 qt) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $14.00 (~6" diam; e.g. Open Country aluminum) [4]
  • Lighter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $1.00 (or matches, or lucky find)

For tools you'll need a ruler or measuring tape, drill (1/16" bit; you could substitute a push-pin or sharp tack for the drill), scissors, Sharpie, thick book (phone book), straight edge, pliers with wire cutters for pot stand. Tin snips for the windscreen or you could do it with a sharp knife and straight-edge, or with tough scissors, kitchen or pruning sheers. Fine sandpaper for finishing edges (optional). Once you've assembled materials, tools and have Jurey's instructions handy, it will take about an hour to build your first full set-up.

Burner, windscreen and pot stand will all pack down into the pot, and even the fuel if you decant it into a 4-oz plastic squirt bottle (which is plenty of fuel for dinner and breakfast for two). The thin wire is for assembling the coat hanger wire pot stand. All the rest of the details are well presented on Jurey's site, although I strongly suggest a slightly modified simmer ring[1]. Total weight is around one pound depending on the pot and how much fuel you pack. Burner alone is about 1/2 ounce, windscreen and pot stand an ounce or so each.

[1] Make the simmer ring out of the same heavier-guage aluminum as the windscreen. Thin ones from the sides of aluminum cans burn up very easily.

[2] Get dryer vent at any hardware store. You could also try a disposable roasting pan or other scrounged aluminum sheeting that is a bit thicker than aluminum cans, but the dryer vent is just about perfect. One section of dryer vent will make enough for several complete stoves, each stove using two pieces: 4"x12" for the windscreen and 3/4"x~9" for the simmer ring.

[3] Any highly distilled alcohol will work as fuel. For testing and home use, I go with cheap denatured from the hardware store. For camping, I'll pick up some 190-proof Everclear from the liquor store for its higher heat value and because it can double for "medicinal purposes" in a cup of cocoa. HEET is available darn near anywhere--auto stores, super markets, convenience stores, gas stations--so it's available en route on most bike journeys; get the yellow bottle, not red (which has a lower grade alcohol which makes less heat).

[4] Lots of choices! You might already have a camping pot which will work, or you can spend more for titanium to shave a few ounces. I had a stainless steel 1-qt camping pot that works very nicely, a little heavier but transfers heat very well.

Caution! Safety!
NEVER use petroleum products in these stoves!
NO: gasoline, white gas, diesel, kerosene, etc.
Alcohol burns with a clear flame, and all parts get very hot even if you can't see the flame, so be careful when these stoves are lit.

Last edited by Alan; 12-16-2011 at 11:53 PM. Reason: minor edits; PS; yellow HEET!!
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  #43  
Old 09-06-2011, 04:44 PM
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dmc dmc is offline
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Default Overhauling 1972 Schwinn Super Sport

Still recovering from a bike wreck 6 weeks past, I have found to time do a complete overhaul on the Super Sport I purchased a couple weeks ago.

I have disassembled the bike and separated the components. From there I have taken an individual component (ex: front brakes, read derailleur) and broken it down into individual nuts, bolts, washers, pieces. At this time I clean each part by hand with a toothbrush and a rag. I'm just using Ajax dish washing super degreaser and a bunch of elbow grease. After each piece has been cleaned I've been removing any rust with fine steel wool. I rinse the pieces after the steel wool treatment to remove any steel hairs. I then Dry, grease and assemble all the pieces to a given component.

Sorry about the low quality camera phone pictures. =)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


I am very happy with the way the way this came out.

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/529...gandcranka.jpg
Rust specs were easy to remove due to all the large flat surfaces.


I spent the most time scrubbing the springs on this. The end result was a much smoother operating and cleaner looking component that I could have imagined would have resulted.

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/1...thrustybac.jpg
Here is a side by side with the restored front brake and the untouched back brake. Notice how rusty the springs are on the back brake. Esp. the right one.


Here is another side by side. They swamped sides here. This picture really accentuates the cleanliness of the restored brake and shows off the shine factor difference.


These guys were dreamy how easily there came out and cleaned up.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've also restored the front wheel to the best of my abilities. I have trued it to a satisfactory level. Overhauled the bearings. Scrubbed the rim and tire inside and out.

I have not been able to remove the handlebar stem. After reading a similar issue on bikeforums.net I have concluded that the wedge bolt is stuck/rusted to the inside housing of the fork tube. I have taken action to attempt to remove the stem and failed. I don't have a lot of experience with the older bikes and rust complications so I am definitely gonna take it into the bike shop and see if they can do something with it. I'm concerned that I might bend or brake something of importance if I mess with it. I am definitely on a budget and am kind of bummed out that I will go need to pay for help. I just hope they can get it out without it costing too much.

The cables and cable housings are not in too hot of condition. I'm going to remove and keep all the original wires and housings but replace them with new cables and housings for as long as I own the bike (hopefully forever).

Last but not least, I'm not too fond the handlebar tape on the bike. However, I wouldn't dream of removing it. Its a little off color from the Kool Lemon of the bike frame and it offers virtually no cushion for the rider's hands. I feel like a newbie asking this... but, can I just cover it with a new layer of bar tape without hurting it? That way I can keep the original tape on and acquire the look and feel of what I want?

I'm gonna post an update in a week or so. =)

Last edited by dmc; 09-06-2011 at 04:48 PM. Reason: typo
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  #44  
Old 09-06-2011, 05:42 PM
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DMC, re; Super Sport overhaul:

My knowledge from the regulars over at bikeforums, is that for rust, oxalic acid does the trick of removing the rust. Different ways of getting oxalic acid are in deck wash from the hardware store, home depot, etc...from a chemistry supply in powder form...mix 2 percent or something like that, with water.
Guys use 000 or 0000 steel wool. Some claim aluminum foil crumpled up removes rust.

They mention some kind of product named McGuires for waxiing chrome.

Stuck stems and seatposts can be a bear. Lots of threads on this over at bikeforums. Lots of methods for removing them. Two basic factors are responsible for the problem: oxidation from the contact of aluminum next to the steel of the steerer tube plus rain and sweat that seeps in between those parts. Also, dried up grease from the last time it was serviced. Routine, yearly checking on the stem, cleaning and regreasing it is recommended to avoid the stuck stem problem, but many people don't do this...including me. Stems and seat posts getting stuck likely had a bit to do with why manufacturers came up with the idea for those ugly threadless stems that most bikes today have.
First, easiest prep for attempting to remove the stem is getting a can of PB Blaster...$5...Fred's has it. Figure out a way to spray the stuff between stem and inside of steerer tube. Takes anywhere from hours to days to weeks for it to penetrate and do the job. You'll have to figure out ways to apply leverage so as to twist the stem without screwing anything up. It's a challenge.

Other thing some have tried is a aerosol product called Freeze-Off. Auto parts stores have it. Idea is to spray it on the stem making it contract away from the inside of steerer tube just sufficiently to allow the stem to be twisted and broken free of whatever is holding it fast inside the steerer tube.

The shop is going to have to try all these things too...not really any special tools involved, so you might as well give it a shot yourself.

Worst case scenario is having to saw off the top of the stem, then making vertical cuts inside the stem to the inside of the steerer tube to break it free. People have had to resort to this method, but it's difficult and tricky.

I had a stuck stem in my trek 560. Nerve wracking experience. Went the PB Blaster route for 3 wks. Still had to turn the bike over to put the stem in a vise and twist the forks with a two by four between the fork blades...not the smartest idea...but I got lucky and didn't screw up the forks except for a very slight depression on the inside surfaces of the forks. Fortunately, the alignment didn't get messed up. Better probably, to somehow safely get the head of the forks in the vise and twist on the stem. Hopefully, your stem will come out much, much easier!

Unless you're really a purist, I wouldn't sweat taking off the old bar tape. At least on my SS, I thought the stuff was lousy. If you really want to preserve it for future use, take it off, put it in a box and store it. There's lots of nice tapes out there...cork, even leather (expensive). Both my bikes need it. I might do cork, but I'm hoping I can still order Benotto celo tape to top it off. Got a link to a source but haven't tried it yet. Not everyone liked Benotto, which came in bright, clear colors...smooth surface...stayed clean. It was a hit with racers for a short period. On the 560, I had it wrapped over a cushiony type of bar tape. Actually, still partly do!
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  #45  
Old 09-06-2011, 11:35 PM
Alan Alan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc View Post
Still recovering from a bike wreck 6 weeks past, I have found to time do a complete overhaul on the Super Sport I purchased a couple weeks ago...
Best wishes on the recovery!

My two cents on the repairs/restoration:

Any rust on bearings (either the balls or the race; the cage isn't critical) means new bearings; no way to effectively clean those; the damage is done. Price is really pretty reasonable. Yeah, I've reassembled some bearings which were less than pristine...do what you have to do...it does make it hard/impossible to get them adjusted right.

I avoid steel wool, especially on aluminum (brake calipers, etc). It embeds tiny slivers which subsequently react with the base metal and make pits. Try Scotch-Brite instead. Also, automotive degreaser solutions are cheap and readily available at any auto parts store. Read the labels, ask the counter guys. Don't use gasoline...huge fire hazard. Those chainrings look shiny!

I bet someone makes replacement plastic bar tape for old Schwinns, no? Or "new old stock"? Like wsbob, I'm not a fan of that old tape (from days on my Continental), but I do understand wanting to preserve it for historic or restoration value. You could certainly wrap over it, that's not unusual. Folks who want a thicker, cushier bar do two layers all the time. If preserving the old tape is the idea, choose a new tape with minimal adhesive. The cork wrap I'm using had no adhesive, and some foamy Specialized tape I used on something else was also bare on the back.

Your LBS undoubtedly has cables, housings, end caps and crimps, or Universal Cycles has kits in various price levels. You need a largish, very sharp diagonal cutter or a special bike cable tool, too. Most bike tools have a nice pincer for the crimps, and maybe an awl to ream out the cut end of the housing. Burrs and rough edges there will cause early cable wear.

A stuck stem can be a bear. Try the penetrating oils wsbob mentioned, also Marvel Mystery Oil (my fav) or Liquid Wrench. Soak plenty into the joint between stem and head tube. You'll need to keep dripping it in to the top joint very frequently (minutes/hours) for days, since it only holds a drop or two at a time. Take the stem bolt all the way out and put some joint juice down that hole each time, too, to penetrate around the wedge end of the stem. After a few days or week of that, flip the frame upside down and dribble in a goodly amount through the bottom bearing, and let is soak in that position for another few days. In that position, replace the stem bolt to keep the oil from dripping through the hole.

As it's soaking in both positions, try twisting the bars in a steering motion while holding the wheel straight. Use lots and lots of mildly forceful back-and-forth to fatigue the corrosion bond rather than gorilla-strength torque which might bend or snap the wrong things. If you've ever tried to straighten misaligned bars without loosening them (like after a crash), it feels sort of like that.

After you've soaked as much penetrating oil into the joint as your patience allows, it's time to apply force. A 24-oz brass hammer is perfect, but you can also us a chunk of brass or aluminum about 1/4" thick, that you can grab with pliers while holding it on top of the stem bolt so that it slightly cushions the blow of a regular hammer (it protects the head of the stem bolt). This is one time when it's nice to have that Schwinn stem bolt head sticking up proud of the stem!

Next, tighten the stem bolt down all the way snug, then back it out about two turns. The idea is to have nearly all of its threads engaged in the wedge, deep in the head tube, to transfer the force to the wedge, and just enough free play to allow shock from the hammer to pop the wedge free of the tube, maybe 1/16" or so.

Hold the brass/alum shim snug against the stem bolt and give it a good, solid rap straight down the stem bolt line. Stop and wiggle the bars. If no luck, line up shim and hammer and whack it again. It may take a dozen or more blows to break it free.

The couple times I've had to do this operation, I succeeded with leaving the wheel and inflated tire on the bike. The tire will soak up much of the impact, avoiding damage to things like dropouts and rim, but still allows the initial shock to break the wedge or stem free of the tube. If it doesn't work that way, then I'd remove the wheel and go to bracing a 2x4, longer than the forks, against the bottom of the fork crown, and repeat the hammer blows. After a dozen or so whacks, put in some more penetrating oil and give it more time to soak.

Good luck!
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  #46  
Old 09-07-2011, 12:09 AM
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Thanks for the awesome feedback guys! I have managed to free the wedge bolt. The stem is still not giving atm. It's gonna soak again tonight (PB Blaster). Will post back.
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  #47  
Old 12-03-2011, 11:50 AM
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We've temporarily diverted from this thread's primary topic 'Deals for the Low Budget Cyclist', lending support to getting Alan in his efforts to refurbish his vintage Schwinn Super Sport and get it back on the road.

Now it's time to again have the eagle eyes out for good deals. In the last couple weeks, new threads were started, one for sleeping bags, another for the REI sale. Nothing wrong with doing that I suppose, but I'm thinking for the sake of simplicity, it may be a good idea to generally keep the announcement of good deals connected to a single thread.

Something up today, is the availability of a water resistant chartreusy colored jacket over at Old Navy...$18, marked down from $40 or thereabouts. The color is quite bright and related to, but doesn't have the intensity of Hi-Vis green or Day-Glo orange, which some people averse to those shades might actually prefer.

The jacket fabric is polyester. It has a mesh lining in the body, sheet lining in the sleeves. Has a zippered hood (which I'm not keen on...might cut it out.) Front hand pockets. Tried to find a pic of the jacket over at Old Navy's site, but one doesn't seem to be there. It's a comfortable fitting jacket, but not generously sized. I got an XL for my 6' 165lb bod. Large would have worked, but I like tops big so they don't drag on my shoulders when I curve them and for better ventilation. Old Navy in the Beav had some XXL sizes.
Here's a pic of a jacket I was considering...am still considering getting...over at Performance Bike. It's Hi-Vis green, lighter construction, no hood, no front pockets, polyester, water resistant, more than twice the money. This jacket is more contour fitted like the cycling jacket it is, whereas the Old Navy jacket is more of a track jacket cut. If I remember correctly though from trying it on, the Performance jacket was fitted very close, and for my fit preference, I needed the XXL.

I like Hi-Vis green, but just wasn't sure I wanted to be wearing that intensity of color every time I was on the bike when it was kind of nippy out (The Old Navy Jacket will be more yellow than this yellow-green Hi-Vis). I may still get it though, as an alternate jacket. Maybe the sale will get better.
Not the Old Navy Jacket, but instead, the Performance Bike Jacket
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  #48  
Old 12-16-2011, 12:17 AM
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Just an update on the Old Navy Hi-Vis yellow jacket: I've now road tested it, so I can say with certainty that is works good...allows nicely for ventilation through the full length zipper down as needed, allowing air to flow in and up around back of the neck and shoulders...so the inside of the jacket doesn't sweat up so much like some water resistant jackets do. This was on a 40-45 degree day, up the hill from Beaveton to Fairmount Blvd, around three times and back down.

Had some doubts as to the brightness of the Old Navy Hi-Vis, but after comparing it side by side with other actual Hi-Vis yellow-green fabrics, it turns out that it's just a little less bright than some of them, but still very bright.

Just was to Old Navy Cedar Hills Crossing-Beaverton again tonight. Three of the jackets remain: A small, a medium, and an XXL. On clearance, now $16.50
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Old 01-12-2012, 02:09 AM
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I seem to recall one of the lady forum members likes pink. Late at night just kind of browsing around nashbar looking at deals before I hit the sack. What's this? Nashbar unloading its junk for 75 percent off...hmmm...what do they got? Oh, well looky here for the girl that loves Pink! Nice Shoes!

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Old 01-25-2013, 01:40 AM
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Good price: $60, down from $114, nice, self contained, USB rechargeable headlight tomorrow, Friday the 25th for Performance Bicycle's 'Deal of the Day':

Cygolite Pace 400 at Perfomance Bike

I've used the Pace 150 for the last couple years, riding occasionally in the evenings, and at night. In a low light or dark setting, on the high setting, I can see well enough to ride 10-15 mph on decent pavement with confidence, but a little more illumination would be nice. I figure this light is two and a half times brighter than the 150.
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