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  #11  
Old 09-10-2008, 01:43 PM
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It's closer to $1K, but Surly puts out some nicely equipped rides, Long Haul Trucker with a triple chainring, or a Cross Check with a double chainring. There are naturally other differences, but there you go. If you're in N Portland, drop by Revolver, catty-corner from New Seasons. The CC would probably make a more natural commuter choice whereas the LHT is a touring bike, but commutes very well. They all fit fat tires with fenders and racks etc. Surly's are simple, basic, no flash and glamor, but solid and versatile. (Keep It Simple Stupid)
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  #12  
Old 09-10-2008, 01:59 PM
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Default fenders/racks on road bikes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brewcaster View Post
Oh more questions:

Can you put fenders on these road bikes?

Rear rack?

Yes, my mom has fenders for her road bike, it uses straps (or zipties) to hold it onto the bike, so there's no tools involved in it's mounting... costs about $50 at Performance when not on sale.




and Yes, there are racks that are made that do not attach permanently to the bike... I've got something like that for about $40 at Performance. Mom doesn't use her bike for shopping, I do, so I have a rack that can hold a pannier.



But Perfomance runs sales all the time... so the prices may be a lot lower...

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Last edited by K'Tesh; 09-10-2008 at 02:18 PM.
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  #13  
Old 09-10-2008, 02:54 PM
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Default Answer is: "It Depends"

The sissy pantie-waisted lycra-clad spandex sillies have road bikes that don't have braize-ons. You can indeed put fenders on (most of) those road bikes. A rear rack is problematic; the amount of weight you could actually put on it would be somewhat limited.

Other bikes are intended to be ridden outside and are set up so you can actually stay dry by mounting real full-length fenders to the frame and fork.

--jason "yes, my Lemond's pantie-waist factor is pretty high" p.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brewcaster View Post
Oh more questions:

Can you put fenders on these road bikes?

Rear rack?
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  #14  
Old 09-10-2008, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djasonpenney View Post
Are you going to be bike commuting or riding for exercise and recreation? Are you planning on day trips or unsupported touring? Are you planning on racing? Last but not least, how thick is your wallet?
Lots of replies... great. And thanks to all!

I wouldn't be using this for regular commuting (unless the other bike was in the shop, I expect)... mostly recreation. Trailer-pulling would certainly be done by the other bike. I haven't done unsupported touring, so while I might get into multi-day trips some day, but not now. Racing is not my thing. So I guess I am sorta looking toward the Lance-wannabe style of bike. I hadn't given cost a whole lot of thought, really... whatever seems like it's a good fit and a reasonable value. I'm not gonna spend $8k, but I could be convinced to spend ... $3k??

I understand the wheel thing... it was pretty important when I got my mountain bike because those rims have to take a lot of abuse. Is Rolf design a brand name? Is anything they make good, or would I be looking to specific models? Are wheel sizes pretty uniform? Some wheels have really thick (in the radial direction) rims... does that make them stronger?

Who makes good frames? Djasonpenney mentioned LeMond. Other names I've seen are Bianchi, Giant, Guru, Felt, Specialized, Colnago... opinions about any of them? I'm not sure what to make of the Trek Portland from their website... how is a "urban" bike different from a "road" bike?

Of course I'll try out a bunch of what's at the shop, but I want to try to be somewhat informed before-hand.
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  #15  
Old 09-10-2008, 09:47 PM
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I can't really add very much here. Jason did an excellent job on the basics. The road bike is going to be much quicker than the mountain bike because of the difference in frame angles and general geometry between the two. The road bike will probably feel like a rocket compared to your mountain bike. I don't mean to contradict Jason, but I think frame stiffness means more than speed...it also means greater efficiency. You're going to get more more forward movement for energy expended.

Being able to ride with hands on the drops or flats is really important, because in addition to allowing maximum aerodynamics, it also tightens center of gravity and shifts weight distribution for optimal control and stability in situations where G forces rise such as on curves, especially downhill ones.

If the bike is your size, and you've got it fit to you pretty well, being on the drops isn't going to be uncomfortable unless your back is ancient, not well, or trashed. Being fit properly means your all your back is going to have to do is be straight and supported by your shoulders, arms, hands, your legs, hips and sitter.

Only issue I have with being on the drops is my neck can get fatigued, but that's when you take a break and get up on the hoods or the top.

I'll agree that good wheels are important, but unless you want to treat yourself, from a functional standpoint, you don't need anything fancy, just some that are built up well.
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  #16  
Old 09-11-2008, 09:16 AM
foote foote is offline
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For three grand, you can get a pretty serious road bike.

I ride a Masi. A 2006 speciale, from back when they were real road bikes. Now they just come in SS or fixed varieties.
Masi makes some great bikes, and they don't break the bank. For $2500, you can get the purple people eater Gran Criterium - sweet.

It should really come down to how the bike fits you though. I settled on the Masi because it was the most comfortable bike for me. I have a pretty long torso (I call it super-torso), and the Masi has a really long top tube, so it fits pretty well. You might find it really uncomfortable, but really like a specialized or something.

I got my bike at Veloce on Hawthorne (and 28th?). I highly recommend them.
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  #17  
Old 09-16-2008, 08:51 AM
fredlf fredlf is offline
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Default Fit first

Gotta agree with those who say that fit is the key thing in a road bike. In your price range there are zillions of options, so you should be able to find something that fits your personal dimensions.

Beyond that, IMHO, the frame is the most important consideration. Everything else can be changed out/upgraded later. Personally, I don't like the feel of aluminum and I can't afford carbon (especially replacing it every few years...), so I ride a steel road frame (a Bontrager Road Lite). With an Ultegra group and a Mavic Cosmos wheelset it's under 20 lbs, and that's more than good enough for me.

If you know the frame dimensions that work for you, don't overlook ebay. There are lots of great bikes there, especially if you're looking for older steel. People get "upgrade" fever and let their old bikes go for pennies on the dollar. Silly people.
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2008, 08:58 AM
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Default the Fit's It...

if you're going to drop that kind of coin on a bike, get a good bike-fit first. I'd recommend Michael Sylvester at Bicycle Fitting Services. He's arguably the best in town. He fit me this last year before I dropped some serious coin on a new racing bike, and the fit has definitely made all the difference.

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