Today's route: 49 miles, 1,300 ft. elevation gain

Today we packed up for the last time and faced a stiff headwind for a short but sweet ride back into Umatilla.

The route rolled through wheat farm country dotted with old barns and back through the Walla Walla onion crops I remembered from our first day.

At the rest stop in a tiny town called Helix (population 183), I noticed this wheat farmer talking with one of the riders. This interaction between spandex-clad cycling city-slickers and tough, old-fashioned farmers is a great part of the Cycle Oregon spirit.

[Cheesy finish line shot]

The highlight of the day was seeing the Columbia River Gorge open up before us and riding into Hat Rock State Park for our final rest stop.

I pedaled hard through the wind today, playing a mental game that my girls would be waiting at the finish line. They weren't there, but my spirits were lifted with a free iced mocha, compliments of Nossa Familia Coffee and Cycle Oregon.

The end of Cycle Oregon was definitely anti-climactic. There were no closing ceremonies or fanfare; just a mad dash to locate your belongings amid a sea of 2000 duffle bags.

This completes my ride reports from Cycle Oregon 2006. I hope you enjoyed my words and photos. I have a few more stories I'd like to share, along with some general impressions of the event, so stay tuned for those.

Click here to see all of my Cycle Oregon photos.

What bike tour would be complete without at least one epic day? Today was that day.

After a smattering of rain last night, we embarked on our penultimate day's ride under our first morning of questionable weather so far. Ominous clouds lingered overhead and riders suited up for the worst. At last night's announcements, we were told our original route had been changed due to severe weather and cold in the mountains.

The cold and damp weather, combined with about 25 miles of highway and freeway riding at the start of the day was admittedly a bit miserable. Even though our new route was 1200 feet lower than the original one, it was still frigid and reports said it was only 38 degrees at our lunch stop at Emigrant Springs State Park.

[Huddling around the fire]

Luckily the Cycle Oregon crew came through and secured a warm shelter for us. Riders took advantage of the pot-belly stove and nearly disrobed in an effort to dry their clothes and warm up. There was also a raging outdoor fire which surely prevented many folks from climbing aboard the sag vehicles.

People were plastic bagging their feet and apparently a little store along the route sold completely out of wool socks.

It was tough to saddle up again after lunch, but just a few miles down the road, things dried up, temperatures rose, and we were treated to an unbelievable day of riding.

The best part of the ride was an amazing downhill section that dropped us back into the Umatilla Valley.

Wide open vistas and a serpentine, smooth road were the reward for the morning's tough conditions. After the descent, rolling hills amid amber waves of grain and a memorable climb out of the Umatilla River valley completed the day.

A few miles before town I met a fellow UCSB Gaucho, Roger Whalen. Roger noticed my UCSB team vest and pulled alongside of me. He was class of '65 and this was his first time on Cycle Oregon. Roger graduated from 10 years before I was born, and here we were, laughing and pedaling along a beautiful empty road at the end of a week-long bike adventure.

[Downtown Athena]

As we entered Athena (pop. 1200) it dawned on me that this would be our last night of camping. Luckily the rain stayed away and we enjoyed a well-earned dinner complete with fresh flower table decorations compliments of the citizens of Athena.

Tonight the beer garden was full of energy. I think people realize that this is really the last day of Cycle Oregon. Tomorrow's short, easy ride back to Umatilla is just a formality. Luckily the entertainment was great and we danced the night away with friends new and old.

Before going to bed I lingered through the camp site, soaking it all in one last time.

View all my photos from Day 6.

Today is our rest day here in the great little town of Union, Oregon and if you want to know what Cycle Oregon is all about, this day pretty much sums it up.

The 3,000 or so riders, volunteer and crew that make up Cycle Oregon have descended on this sleepy little farming town (population 2,000) and the community has responded by working hard to keep us fed, entertained and happy.

Some riders chose to do an optional 91 mile loop up through the idyllic farming valleys around Catherine Creek State Park and returning through Baker City, but most opted to just veg out downtown and partake in the local hospitality.

[Cleaning for a cause]

Everyone, that is except the volunteers at the Community Cycling Center. There's no rest for them because their bike detailing promotion has proven to be very popular this year. At $35 per bike ($50 if it's "extra cruddy"), the CCC figured they'd make about $15,000 dollars and I'm sure they exceeded their expectations. Their crew deserves big props for their dedication and hard work in raising money for their programs the entire week.

But for everyone else, this rest day was the climax of their "active vacation". Choices for activities abound from a trip out to some hot springs, tours of local museums, wine tasting, and of course sampling the local cuisine.

Speaking of food, Augusto and Jason from Nossa Famila Coffee treated me to lunch (thanks guys!) but finding a place without at least a one-hour wait was impossible. Gravy Dave's Diner — where I had this beautiful burger yesterday — was mobbed with hungry cyclists. The employees even (begrudgingly) dressed up in '50s poodle skirts just for us.

[Don't even ask if
it's homemade.]

The people of Union did a great job taking advantage of the economic potential of the day. These sweet older ladies sold hundreds of slices of pie (see photo) and gallons and gallons of ice cream. I noticed some folks going back for seconds.

On a more somber note, the family of the late Mike Wilberding came to camp to lead a memorial ride with some of Mike's friends from Intel. I ran into Dayn Wildberding (Mike's son) and he showed me these special jerseys they had made and said about 20 of Mike's friends would ride into the hills and have a ceremony to remember his dad.

I spent the morning trying to find some wireless web access and ended up underneath an apple tree is some guy's front yard (yes I had had his permission). When my battery died, I worked from a desk at the old Union High School. Then, when my work was done I returned to the yard and uploaded a few stories. On the way to my front-yard wi-fi spot, I couldn't help but snap this photo of some local boys in front of an old house. Is this classic Americana or what?

[Norman Rockwell would love this place.]

I'll always remember my time in Union. They gave us a great welcome, treated us with care and sent us on our way with warm memories...which we'll need for tomorrow's ride.

Well, I made it.

Yesterday we left Sumpter and climbed up and over Anthony Lakes pass at 7,400 feet. Now I'm here in Union (population 2,000), yet another charming old town I feel lucky to visit.

We arrived yesterday and today is our layover day. There’s an optional 91 mile ride that I’m sure would have been fun, but I opted to catch up on some things and soak in the local hospitality.

The ride yesterday was tough, but cooler temperatures made it much more comfortable than the previous two days.

[The climb to
Anthony Lakes]

After a fun rest stop in a place called Granite—where locals tempted us with watermelons and cookbooks— we made our way up into the mountains toward our lunch stop at Anthony Lakes, a popular ski area at 7,400 feet. Due to forest fires in the area, we narrowly averted being re-routed. A last minute decision by the fire crew chief opened the road especially for us.

After some grueling climbs, lunch and picture perfect views were our reward at Anthony Lakes. We devoured our barbecued, pulled-pork sandwiches on the shores of a beautiful lake and rested before tackling a blistering 11 mile downhill into Union.

[A well-deserved rest
at Anthony Lakes]

[Bernard and his
slippers at 7,300 ft.]

Before I began the descent, I finally got a chance to talk a bit more with a French guy named Bernard. I’ve been noticing him all week because he’s riding in slippers with flat pedals. Yes, this cool and handsome fellow is having a great time and sees no reason in wearing any other footwear!

Coming down off the mountain we pedaled through a rich, agricultural valley and then battled headwinds for the final few miles into camp at Union.

We’ve pitched our tents on the football field of Union High School, which is where I’m typing this from right now. The school kids have two days off, just to take care of us.

OK, I’m off to upload this story (and several others). I’ll be logging onto a wireless signal in the front yard of some guy’s house, on an old patio table, underneath an apple tree.

Enjoy more of my photos from Day 4 in the gallery.

Ride Details: 53 miles, 4,400 feet elevation gain

This morning we left Starkey and rode along the Grande Ronde River valley. It was a frigid but unbelievably gorgeous start to the day. I couldn’t resist joining the many other riders that stopped on a bridge for a cheesy photo of me and the river.

Today’s ride was a roller-coaster with more tough climbing and unrelenting heat. We pedaled over three separate peaks on our way into Sumpter.

After a morning in the mountains, our route opened up into a vast meadow. Cows and serpentine creeks left their mark on my memory and on the wide-open landscape.

[Can you hold it?]

Making our way to the first rest stop of the day, I saw the longest line yet for the "blue rooms," which is what porta-potties are called here on Cycle Oregon.

Then, as we pedaled away from the rest stop I met a lady with a most unusually placed chain ring tattoo.

Today I got a chance to catch up with Ats and Taeko, my new friends from Tokyo who are rolling on a tricked out tandem Bike Friday. I met them on the first day’s ride and ride with them a bit each day since. They run a website called Cycle Tokyo! which is a great resource for tourists who want to experience Tokyo by bike.

We had a nice lunch stop in Granite and the locals laid out some hay bales and blankets to sit on.

I’m still feeling great, but my enthusiasm for my performance thus far is tempered by the fact that most people on this ride are nearly twice my age.

[67 years old
and still going strong.]

Take Joe McCann for example. I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw his jersey from the very first Cycle Oregon (this is the 19th year). I stopped and chatted with him for a while. He’s 67 and he was working hard up the long, hot climb, but still maintaining his composure and cadence.

He said he’s done “10 or so” Cycle Oregon’s but told me this is definitely his last. “I’ve got other things I want to do with my life,” he said. I told him I hope to be as strong as he his when I’m 67.

Finally into the historic town of Sumpter, I’ve now got three days of riding in my legs. I’m definitely feeling the Cycle Oregon vibe. I can feel the mental and physical rhythm of camping, riding, eating, and so on.

The little towns we stop in are a big part of that vibe. Sumpter (like Heppner and Starkey) is a great place, full of old storefronts, ranches, and warm, friendly folks like Mark at the Java Net café. Mark is typical of the nice people we run into in these communities. If you're ever in Sumpter and need a warm place to log on and warm up, check out his place.

Our campsite here is the most beautiful yet. We’re in a big open meadow with thigh-high grass over looking a gorgeous valley thick with trees as far as the eye can see.

Tomorrow we have a big day of climbing so I better get some sleep.

Check out beautiful Sumpter and the rest of my Day 3 photos.

The folks in Starkey, like Heppner and Umatilla, welcomed us with open arms; all 42 of them. Starkey is the first real small town we’ve stayed in. Total population is 21 and according to Dave (owner of the Starkey Store) they were the last town in Oregon to get phone service.

Setting up the Cycle Oregon circus of 3000 people in a place like this is—in the words of ride director Jerry Norquist—“a challenge” and that's putting it mildly.

There was no running water for us to tap in to so the ride crew trucked in 30,000 gallons for the showers. Then, some forest fire crews called up and took some of the trucks, leaving some folks without their daily bathing ritual.

[Improvise]

I didn’t mind, I just walked down to the Grande Ronde River and took a relaxing dip. Back at camp, I noticed this guy making good use of a lawn sprinkler.

But a lack of water wasn’t the only memorable thing. We slept in a dry, dusty cow pasture, pocked by hooves and dotted with cow pies. But despite being in the middle of nowhere, people still lined up for accupunture treatments, yoga, and the massage barn was full all night long.

The night’s entertainment consisted of the infamous Bike Rodeo, where the intrepid and highly-skilled Bike Gallery mechanic crew tested their bravery with bike jousting, foot-down competitions, and of course bike limbo. It was dusty, but fun.

[Bike Jousting in the middle of nowhere.]

After battling a 26K web connection in a back room of the Starkey Store, I hit the sack to prepare for another day of riding. Tomorrow we climb to 5,900 feet and end up in Sumpter.

Ride details: 82 miles, 6000 feet elevation gain

Leaving Heppner was bittersweet. While I looked forward to getting back in the saddle and the ride into Starkey, I felt like I didn't have enough time to enjoy the sweet little town nestled between golden, rolling hills.

The community in Heppner gladly let Cycle Oregon take over their entire downtown and the night’s entertainment—an awesome Irish music ensemble—fit with Heppner’s strong Irish roots.

While hanging out around the stage, I noticed a familiar T-shirt on Cycle Oregon founder and emcee Jonathan Nicholas. The design was created by Portlander Justa Louise-Phillips and he bought the shirt from her at last year’s BikeCraft Fair.

[Rest stop in the forest]

As Heppner became just a memory, a new challenge awaited; a 3,300 foot ascent. As we spun up the mountains, elderberry trees dotted the thick forest, the scent of pine was strong and brooks babbled gently. Our first rest stop of the day was in a grove of tall pines. Rest stops that nice make it tough to get back in the saddle.

[Janis McDonald
aka Wonder Woman]

As our climb continued to 5,300 feet, I shared some miles with my friend and neighbor Janis McDonald, aka Wonder Woman.

By the time we descended into lunch at the hunting hub of Ukiah, temperatures soared and everyone huddled for shade.

I bumped into a guy named Sam, who was wearing a familiar jersey (back).

After re-fueling at lunch, staying cool became the top priority. Some locals set up a fire hose which several folks took advantage of. I noticed this lady who took a quick little dip in a creek along the road.

[Anniversary of 9/11]

Today was the anniversary of the 9/11 attacks and I noticed lots of USA-themed jerseys. There was even one guy whose bike was custom painted like the US flag.

It was a tough day; hot and lots of climbing, but I feel OK. The old muscles I haven’t felt in a while are starting to wake up. It feels good.

Upon rolling into camp in Starkey, we were welcomed by the Alpenrose Chocolate Milk Recovery Zone. Ice cold chocolate milk after a long day in the saddle was sublime beyond words!

[Welcomes like this are typical.]

Stay tuned for reflections on Camp Starkey and check out more images from Day 2’s ride.

Well I made it to Heppner; 70 miles down, 520 to go.

The ride was fantastic. Ideal weather, wide-open countryside, and wispy clouds set against a perfectly blue sky and empty roads. I rolled out of Umatilla and kept to myself for the first 20 miles or so. I just wanted to let the feeling of the pedals and the open vistas sink in. It's been way too long since I've been on the open road and it felt great.

Here's a few stories about the people I met on my way to Heppner.

[Marilyn "Tweety" Hayward]

Marilyn "Tweety" Hayward was a breath of fresh air. She was motoring along on a 22lb. carbon and titanium Bachetta recumbent. We chatted for several miles and when the road tilted just slightly upward I noticed she had trouble talking. It turns out that Marilyn is missing a lung due to cancer. Once she got her breath back and we figured out we had some mutual friends, she motored away, slicing through the wind and leaving me in the dust!

Whether you like high-tech carbon recumbents or old-school classics, this ride is full of eye candy for bike geeks. Check out this guy's chromed 1970s Raleigh. I couldn't help but comment on it. The rider's name is Mike Swett he's ridden five Cycle Oregon's on it so far.

Our first cool town of the day was Echo. It really had the feel of a wild west frontier town. Wide main streets, old buildings. They had an original bank building where I could just picture grizzly men walking in and plunking a sack of gold coins on the counter.

[Ripper brothers in front
of their family store in Echo.]

I rode into Echo with a friend of mine named John Ripper. Turns out John's grandparents owned a grocery store here at the turn of the century called Ripper's Grocery. The building is still there so I snapped a photo of John and his brother in front of it.

Pedaling on from Echo, I shared a few miles with Bike Gallery owner Jay Graves and Cycle Oregon founder and Oregonian columnist Jonathan Nicholas. This event would not exist where it not for Jonathan's love of rural Oregon and the people that make up these communities. Here's a shot of Jay clowning around.

And speaking of the Cycle Oregon crew...how's this for service? Out in the middle of nowhere was Cycle Oregon director Jerry Norquist fixing a flat and making a friend.

[Dylan]

Speaking of which, I stopped and talked to this cool first-grader named Dylan. He was sitting on the fence outside his house watching us go by. He had a sweet stutter as he told me a story about how sometimes his daddy has to cut off the heads of their sheep and take them to the dump when they get sick. Nice kid. Strange story.

And then there was Suzi Lane from Eugene. I rode up beside her and couldn't miss the leg boot she had strapped to her rear rack. Turns out she broke her foot just two weeks ago dancing in high-heels. She struggled along with dogged determination because she had been training for this ride for six months and wasn't going to let anything stop her. Once we split I picked some flowers I intented to give her at the finish. The flowers wilted, but I saw Suzi in Heppner. She was still smiling, and still planning to ride on the next day.

Well I better log off and get some breakfast (it's 5:30am right now). We've got 81 miles and some serious climbing today. I uploaded about 50 photos from Day 1, so go check them out in the gallery.

[Hope I look this happy
after today's ride!]

Hope all's well in Portland.

[Where's my bag?]

So here I am in McNary Dam State Park, Umatilla Oregon. I’ve never been this far out into the Gorge. I feel like I’m out on the frontier.

It’s Day 0 of the 19th annual Cycle Oregon and the sounds, sights and scope of this whole operation are overwhelming.

Thousands of people are settling into this temporary compound; 2000 riders, hundreds of volunteers, vendors, staff, it's like a tiny nation-state in the middle of nowhere. Generators and refrigerated trucks hum incessantly and riders are like bees in a honeycomb, busily setting up their tents and fidgeting with their huge bags of gear.

[The tent farm]

The camp itself has been laid out with military precision. Each section has its purpose; the main stage, the vendors area, tent farm, porta-potties, beer garden and so on. Amazingly, somehow it all comes together (even though the stiff wind has been trying to blow everything apart). Everyone (it seems) is happy and that's really all that matters. And hey, what's not to love; we're about to embark on a seven day riding adventure through some of the most gorgeous country in, well, the country.

But before we start, there's Umatilla base camp.

Standing guard over camp is the Smith family. I noticed this trio of gunslingers standing by the bike corral and found out that they're all related; dad Rob, son Trevor and grandpa Mark. Rob's great-great Grandpa was a real-life Sherriff in North Dakota back in the 1800s. And yes, the guns are loaded (with confetti).

[Don't mess with the Smith boys.]

Bike Gallery is here in a big way. They've got a retail store set up, but the product mix has been tailored a bit for Cycle Oregon; toothbrushes and motrin are their best sellers.

Cycle Oregon’s main mission is to support the small towns they travel through. On that note, they’ve got a community market area that features local vendors and organizations selling foods and crafts. These cute kids from a local elementary school were selling nice, big Hermiston watermelon for $1 per slice.

But I didn't want to fill up with watermelon, because I noticed the grilling machine going full tilt. What's a grilling machine? The caterers have this custom-made trailer that can grill 1,000 New York steaks at one time. It's essentially a conveyor belt and the steaks go 'round-and-'round, dipping themselves in a vat of marinade with each rotation. Vegetarians, avert your eyes...

And of course what ride would be complete without an accupuncurist on hand? Yep, that's right, I battled the chi in my knees and got my first treatment.

It’s about 4:30 now and the beer garden is filling up. They've got some live music lined up and I better go or I won't get a good seat. I think I'll go check it out.

Tomorrow we ride 65 miles. I can't wait.

[See more photos in my photo gallery from Base Camp in Umatilla.]

The 19th edition of Cycle Oregon begins this Saturday. I'll be joining the famous week-long tour and reporting back with photos and stories from the road.

That's the good news.

The bad news is that I'm woefully unprepared for the journey. Sure, I'm still young(ish) at 31, but I can't even remember the last time I rode over 30 miles at one sitting. Looking at the route, I've got to survive an average of 70 miles over seven days; not to mention scaling numerous mountain passes.

But don't get me wrong, I'm really looking forward to the challenge. The route looks fantastic (see below) and I'm hoping this grueling week of riding will kickstart my cyclocross training.

I don't think I'll know too many of the 2,000 or so other riders and I'm also not used to touring with access to gourmet food, yoga classes, hot showers, and live entertainment, so it should be an interesting new experience.

I should have some stories posting automatically while I'm gone (I leave Friday night) and I'm going to try and file reports every day, but depending on logistics (and my ability to still think straight after a full day in the saddle) I might miss a day or two.

So stay tuned for reports and photos from the Oregon countryside and if you'll be on the ride, I'll see you out there.